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mingpowman
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awesome! the next time i'm at the tower, i'm gonna have to try this one! but only if my climbing buddy who thinks most hand cracks are too thin and that most fist cracks are actually hand cracks is around for the 3rd pitch.
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MishaEE
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The article was written by Dave Pagel, who still writes for Climbing (he's one of the regional editors or something like that).
Wanna do it without cams?
Cheers,
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Skydiver
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I was at the tower that weekend, and think I saw the author on Tulgey. I had a great time there, leading new wave, broken tree, klondike, and the 1st pitch of one way sunset, all on-sight xcept for new wave which I'd done on a previous trip. The 2nd pitch of one way sunset looked spectacular but my partner wasn't up for it, and for whatever reason I was pretty burned out after leading the first pitch and wasn't quite up to it. It was fun for me to get on some moderatly hard climbs, after being there a number of years ago and only being really qualified to do the Durrance and few others, which were great climbs but they don't have much easy stuff there.
It seemed there were a lot of ralley types there
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