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AtomicPenguin
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
someone please please give me detailed directions to this rap. one rope or 2? 50 or 60 m ? We are thinking of doing cooke book soon. I did west crack w/ spencer last year and we didn't find the rap. Thw walk off is heinous..enough to deter me from going back..
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orphia nay
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
huh, post a TR when you get back. We tried to do that climb some years back and just couldn't figure out how to get on it! My partner led off on the right-most 5.9 variation of the initial pitch. NOT recommended. Much thrashing and cursing. He came down. He then tried the middle 5.9 variation of the initial pitch. Also weird, but we got up it.

I took off on the start of the next pitch and just could NOT seem to figure out how to do it. The obvious corner you start in quickly pinches down to no crack. It seems like you have to change corners and go further left, but I wussed out. He tried it and also wussed out. We left with our tails between our legs and ran up W. Crack instead.

Have fun,
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Adm
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Bring a ropegun who likes thrashing up wide stuff (thanks, Brent!)

I shared a belay on this climb with a woman who was just learning to lead trad (but was already an accomplished sport climber). Her entire belay equalization scheme was made of quickdraws clipped to each other. But what could I say? She led what I wouldn't!

'Course later we saw her pinching the bolt hangers on Needle Spoon and complaining about the runout...
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angeleuiaa
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
I know you're the guide Karl, but I thought it was to the south that you found the 1 rap to easy ground.
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bluns1
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Actually, there's some new bolts! As you head east you'll see a tree growing on the slabs. There's only one and the new bolts are right below it, easy to find. From these, it's two ropes to the ground, but you can rap to one of the lower sets of bolts from here if you only have one rope.

- Lord Slime
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paul_stam19
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
I was just up there yesterday doing Crescent Arch. There are cairns leading all the way from the summit to the tree and a large block where two bolts with chains are in place. The next set of bolts are about 70 ft. down. I too did the walkoff once, in the rain. Not recommended.

Before you buy.
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Arkhew
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Ok, I get it. I'll check out the way to the east next time. The last time I went off the south side I did use one rope and then walked down less steep slabs to the trees. Some might want two ropes to make it all the way.
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bluns1
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
There is also a small tree/bush and alrge boulder where the rap station is...
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swift75
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Damn! someone's come a long way in 6 mo.
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garyincolumbus
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Thanks for the TR, Jim, good stuff!
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cosmovision
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Posted 1 Year, 11 Months ago permalink
Hey, thanks! Did you get my email?
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