TR: Gymbie meets Serenity Crack

Serenity Crack, Yosemite, USA. 9AM Saturday, Sep. 16, 2000. A perfect climbing day. No crowds, just friends. Warm, crisp, clear. P1. 5.10a onsight

WoWWWW!!! It took me a while to get through it, but it was most definitely worth it...keep 'em rolling in...

Tankuuu... The Rockrat...

A nice example of a 'stylish' TR. Great job, Karl on the route...

- Sumo

Before you buy.

Pasive pro is the way to go

What about sons of yesterday?

I needed to be back home in the Bay Area by dinnertime. Our party of three (Karlee, blyslv, and I) started at 9am and topped out at 12pm. 8*) Karl 'next time!'

congrats on the first 10a. Serenity Crack is certainly a good one to do int on. But why no cams? Makes no sense to me. Cams work great and therefore I use them lots. I think I own almost as many cams as I do stoppers, including the rigid friend that I bootied off of the third pitch of Serenity Crack 3 years ago.

Cams rule. :^)

Andy

Before you buy.

Not to speak for Karl, but the 1st and 2nd pitches of Serenity protect very well with nuts alone. The 3rd pitch is something else however. Some of my climbing partners, who all typically sport large war chests with at least 2 of every cam to 4 inches, prefer and enjoy to use nuts as much as possible, for a variety of reasons. Retro, solid nuts are more secure than corresponding cams and inspire more confidence, blah blah blah.

Sure, until you climb some funky crack that doesn't like them. And then there are HB Offsets, which, in case you didn't get the message, RULE THE WASTELAND.

Cams drool... 8*) I normally carry 8 cams with me. On Serenity, I had 16 cams, but stuck with the passive pro. As a result, I was a bit over-prepared. So...Lug. Lug. Lug. I always place passive pro first and save cams for panic hangs and anchors. As a result, I usually end up carrying cams more than placing them. I imagine I'll need to change that style if I go to Indian Creek, but I usually prefer a lighter, simpler rack. Then again, ask Karlee about all the nuts that popped.

Help me out here...

My friend says that the 1st pitch does not protect well for the portion from the ground to the first bolt. Is this true? How high up before you get some solid pro to protect a fall. And what type is it?

tom

Before you buy.

Carry more of them and you won't feel the need.

Aliens weigh very little.

re: Dingus' comments. I do love those HB aluminum offsets. gotta get a set of those.

Andy

Before you buy.

You're right. The bolt is a bit ... high. Karlee kindly clipped it for me. When I lead Serenity again, I'll probably use a tri-cam lower down.