TR: Avalanche Lake, Adirondaks (short day, long post)

I felt cold just reading this ... good read tho, thanks Steven.

Steven,

Nice report! My office was feeling a little warm, now it's just about right.

I was up to the Trap Dike a year ago, but had no ice experience to speak of at the time, so it was out of the question then. Looked beauteous ... can't wait to go get back to it.

BTW, Daisy & a friend of hers did Shoestring this weekend, loved it!

Nice TR. I've always found Avalanche Pass to be extremely beautiful. I was disheartened to hear of your assessment of the conditions. I've always found the Adirondike & Trap Dyke to be 'in'. Sorry to hear it was not more inviting to climb the Dyke. I've done it twice and have found it to be quite exhilarating but yet moderate.

Good luck in your preparations for the Grand.

Cheers,

It was the fact that it had rained that week, that recent snowfall had been really light, that the two-pitch route wasn't in at all when people had climbed it just fine a week earlier, and mainly that we would be doing it with full packs.

That is, I gather that most of the time when people do the Trap Dike they plan to do just that and don't have the weight of the ropes and rack.

Anyway, I know I'll be going back there, hopefully later this season, to do it, especially now that I know the logistics of it all. That place is too beautiful to not go back to soon.

-steven-

IMO:

The Trap Dyke is difficult to judge on its condition unless you actually commit to it. I've climbed it both ways, Staying in the Dyke for almost the entire climb then breaking out right towards Colden's Summit through the scrub spruce and secondly, climbing the slide which we gained by climbing seep ice that forms on the right side of the Dyke just as you clear the second step. The first and second steps can offer little if any challenge or be completely chandeliered with heavy water flow beneath threatening to soak you if you break through. It will largely depend on the snow loading hence, early season ascents can be more of a challenge becasue the steps have not filled in.

Oddly enough my first time up the Dyke I did it by staying in the Dyke roped up & simul-climbing. Difficult snow climb chest deep with the threat of an avalanche. Actually fell into a couple of spruce-holes up to my shoulders. The second time was via the slab which I soloed thinking that a rope would just pull me/partner off if the other on should fall. We felt that the potential for self arrest was almost non-existent becasue of the condition of the snow/ice/neve' at the time.

For myself climbing the slab and especially down low I found to be the most nerve-racking mostly do to the steepness and the exposure. Fortunately the neve' was continuous with small patches of hard ice and with French or Modified techniques I found each stance to be very comfortable. It was hard to get that little voice inside me to believe it though.

As the slab angle eased up I found I become more relaxed and was able to move from a piolet dagger position to a piolet cane (sp). If you have the time and feel relaxed enough the Dyke is a great place to practice French Technique. The conditions near the top were not that bad.

As far as pack weight I carried less on the second attempt but still had a snow shoes, rope, 2 screws, water, extra clothes and bivy bag. I also used my Mtn. Axe near the top of the climb which afford me a more upright and comfortable stance. During the climb my partner and I were accompanied by high winds and snow squalls that made visibility poor. There is a distinct rock pulpit at the top of Mt Colden and upon reaching it we were greeted with clear skies....HoHaaa! We hiked down the backside of Colden breaking trail most of the way so the snow shoes were worth the weight.

Gothics, north face, is another fun route which would benefit you in your prep. for The Grand.

Cheers,