Top-roping setup on a sport route

Hello unknown, 'High-Speed'

Your set up is Bad! I won't regurgitate too much of what others have all ready written, but please change you set up. It is the combination of your rope and dirt that acts as a file on the chains or any other type of top anchor. If you ever visit a very popular sport climbing area, i.e.: Owens, Williamson and others you can see the effects of improper use of top anchors. I use two Long draw with locking biners on both ends for lowering if a second if following or TR. I also like the set up that Bruce mentioned, have not used but it sounds good. If you are concerned about equalization use a couple of sling with the magic X and locking biners.

As always try to rap down if relying on the anchors.

Bobby 'always rapping ' Fredin

Before you buy.

Bullshit. You'll need a hacksaw to replace the quicklink.

It's really quite simple: Slap a QD on each bolt, clip the rope, and lower off. It'd be best if you'd equip those QD's with lockers. Last man off raps from the chains.

- Sumo

Before you buy.

um ..... ah.... how about a wrench ....maybe two.... provided they are not rusted...

So, yer gonna strip the QuickLinks after each climb? What a waste of time... why not just se them fancy aluminum thingies, whaddatheycalled... Carabiners?

- Sumo

Before you buy.

I like the quicklinks (left on, for everyone to use). I wish every sports climbing anchor would use these critters at the end of either the chain or directly on the bolt anchor (with the type of anchor that provides the correct orientation of the quickling). Chain does wear out. Any anchor that sees significant traffic will eventually wear out. Much easier to take a wrench and unscrew the rapid link and snap on a new one. Usually about a 1.30 each and a great field maintanable solution for anchors. A bummer is chain or shuts directly into bolts, especially the non-rawl stud type (I really dislike the studs, btw, as you load the hanger right onto the thread which just doesn't seem like a good idea at all to me, but...different subject). When the chain (or whatever) wears thin, can be a bummer to beef the anchor back up again. Hard to pull the bolt to replace the chain. Sometimes, folks have to drill another hole and add another bolt. Thats no good.

Folks will lower and top rope thru chainlinks, its a given. And, when toproping, not everyone will want to jog back up thar to clean the route when they're done. So...rapid (or quick) links are a great solution. I just wish folks wouldn't rip them off!

Brian in SLC

Before you buy.

I'll toss in my two cents worth. I always try to TR off anchors using my own gear. I also try to rappel to get off a sports climb and/or clean on rappel too. Even lowering thru chain anchors (or any anchors) wears them out.

Its poor style. And very common.

I think the best TR set up is to add four locking biners to a couple of longer quick draws. Then, yer all bombproof for TRing. If the chain is nice and long, then yer probably ok with a locker on the end of each chain.

Have fun and be safe!!

Brian in SLC

Before you buy.