Tips on Developing Bouldering Areas?

I am trying to gather some info on the development of bouldering areas. There are many areas that have seen restrictions/closures due to 'climber impact', and there are just as many being monitored for potential impact. What things would be important to consider when developing an area? I would like to address trail making/maintenance, the cleaning of problems, preserving vegetation on top-outs and around the base, preventing erosion and soil damage around the base of the boulders, and ettiquette/ethics associated with establishing and maintaining bouldering areas.

None of what follows is a flame. Why do you want to 'develop' a bouldering area in the first place? In fact, your answer to me is irrelevant, as you're going to do what you do anyway. But I challenge to ask and answer this question of yourself, honestly.

Of what benefit is the development of an area TO THE AREA?

Of what benefit is development to the people who may already boulder there (if there are any)? If there are, how do they feel about it? If there aren't, why not keep it to yourself and a few close friends?

I equate development with people. I equate people with impact. If you know of and climb at a pristine area, why on earth would you want to bring in that impact?

Is the development of the area an ego trip of sorts?

I'd recommend not developing trails at all. At one place I frequent I often hop from rock to rock to avoid even footprints.

As little as possible. Learn to relish lichen, moss, dirt, punji sticks and similar delights. Call it Native Bouldering.

This is easy. Don't tell people about it. Cause if you do and the area is decent, you will not be preserving anything.

Can't be done.

I believe you can see my slant on this. I know of several areas that are fairly pristine. I would not develop or even divulge the locations of these places to anyone except trusted friends who can be counted upon to maintain a low profile. If someone I trusted in turn developed, publicized and brought in a significant increase in traffic, it would certainly ruin our friendship.

Just my opinions dude. I'm sure a case can be made for sound, respectful development. So it all comes back to 'why' and 'why not.' I am offering the voice of why not.

Agree

Non cleaning ads 'spice'

I'd like to go off a bit here. In Cody, where I now reside the locals seem to like killing off vegetation even when it does not pose a threat, or aid, or lack there of to a problem. Killing off four fairly old junipers for the sake of a 'C-' quality, 3 move V8 problem is a poor idea (which has been repeated 3 x). In Penn, I had a unique position by being involved with a lease of a privately owned bouldering area. There, the boulders were in the trees and had little light to aid in drying them but also had a plentiful amount of moss and other plant life growing on and around them. The terms of the lease could have allowed me to remove this material but I choose to leave it. Working around lichen, trees, yellow jackets, poison ivy, and downed branches added to the whole pleasure from going there. I could have used 'Round Up' to defoliate, wire brushes to rip off all the lichen, pesticide to kill the wasps, and saws to clear the trees-but then evidence of my (peoples) impact would have been clear for years. Instead I came for 20 months and left (1995-1997). I doubt now that my 'trails' can even be found.

rick d

<SNIP much good advice>

If the area will never be used much (due to location, choss, etc.): tread lightly, keep quiet, and follow DMT's advice.

If the area is likely to see enough climbing pressure to cause an impact on the landscape, then I think planned development is better than unplanned development. Impacts can be lessened by defining trails, ethics, parking, chalk, and vegetation preservation guidelines before users can develop any bad habits in your area. In that case, 1. Work closely with the land owner/manager from the beginning 2. Consult experienced folks (start at the Access Fund?) to help with making decisions.

While there are other issues, a major problem I have with current bouldering areas is the excessive clearing of vegetation at the base of problems. I figure someday there will be king-sized mattresses around the base of every boulder and not a plant in sight.

Sorry, I should have explained myself better. I am not personally going to develop an area. But while bouldering with some friends, the other day, we were discussing the best ways to 'manage' established areas and how some places (that are very popular) could have been developed better at the onset. There are some places (Hueco Tanks in Texas, Happy Boulders around Bishop, Colorado Front Range boulders, Horsetooth Resevoir in Colorado, and Lilly Boulders in Tennessee, just to mention a few) that are really popular. We were just discussing what might be different if people knew how popular they would become. I agree with most of everyones input, but I feel it is a bit too idealistic considering the boom in popularity that bouldering has recently experienced. Regarding the outcome and my personal interest, I just hoped someone thinking about 'developing an area' might get some useful insight from this discussion. Oh well.

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Well said.

I appreciate all the input everyone is giving. I came upon this mes. board because I am interested in developing a new boulder area myself and wanted to know some ethics on caring for the environment while doing what I love. When I say develop, I mean for myself and maybe a couple of friends. I don't want to advertise this place. I feel like a discovered a gold mine and no one is climbing there. I'd like to keep it that way. The rock is solid, the landings are clean, it's close to my house, so I won't be using much gas to get there-that's less impact right there. The only drawback is some vegetation getting in the way. I know inevitably some vegi. will get destroyed in the process, but I'm talking minor amounts, just to make the problems possible. As I read these posts, I'm liking the idea of primitive bouldering. That's the challenge right there.