Rope Life Query

Hi Folks,

I have a Bluewater 11mm Static that I've never used, I got a deal on it. It's been in a rope bag for about a year and a half, on occasion aired and uncoiled. Is there a 'Shelf Life' factor involved here. If It's usable I'll use it this fall. If I should be doubful, I'll just use it for scrap/

Thanks in advance.

Hi Folks,

I have a Toyota back-seat seat belt I've never used, I got a deal on it. It's been in the back seat for about ten years, on occasion dusted and rearranged. Is there a 'Shelf Life' factor involved here. If It's usable I'll use it the next time I have a fifth passenger. If I should be doubtful, I'll just sue Toyota . . . won't I?

David 'aren't seat belts and climbing harnesses made of the same webbing?' Van Baak

scrap/

Yes, with out going into lots of specifics nylon oxidizes which weakens it. Thus ropes although never used but old are worthless. This is especially true for dynamic ropes. You mention that it is a static line. Since it should not be used for lead climbing (top rope only) you 'probably' have a few good years left in it.

Allen Sanderson

You can be the Fifth Passenger, and Hope it works!

Thanks Allen,

Appreciate the honest feedback.

Please, go into some specifics. If possible, please cite a web page with a study or two.

I ask this as I have an old Mammut rope, from about 1982 or so. It was stored in a controlled environment for many years. I use it to rapell when cleaning and trundling, and occasionally as a top-rope. Two things I've noticed. The sheath seems to leave alot of fuzz on the carabeners, suggesting the sheath's a bit brittle. That and it is not very dynamic any more. (compared to my 'new' Sterling V-dry).

FYI: 1. This is not a troll. I really have and use this relic. 2. No I do not lead on it. Not for an instant that I think it would break, just that it would not have the dynamic properties it once had. 3. I have a couple of harness just as old. 2 in. seat belt stuff. Soft as ever. Use 'em all the time.

So please enlighten me. Some science if ya don't mind.

nathan sweet

About 5 years ago I gave Clyde Soles an old kernmantle rope to test that was >20 years old (probably about 25), and had seen little or no wear (my guess that it saw no more than 5 days use as a toprope total). He gave it the standard UIAA test fall, and it held a single lead fall with a reasonable impact force (Clyde might remember the numbers - I don't), and broke on the second. As far as I know, that is the closest anyone has come to testing a rope that basically just sat on a shelf for X number of years, although I'm sure the rope companies have this data. The bottom line is that that rope probably would have been just fine for top-roping or hauling, but it would not be a great idea to lead on it. YMMV Tom Dunwiddie

Maybe some specifics would help. Why would oxygen affect the nylon in a dynamic rope more than in a static rope?

AND, Do air tight storage bags solve this problem?

Ted Compton