RFI: Sequoia/Kings Canyon and Courtright Reservoir

My wife and I are heading off on a much needed vacation next week and plan to spend the bulk of it at Sequoia/Kings Canyon and Courtright Reservoir. We will be car camping/dayhiking with the possibility of a couple nights of backpacking, AND of course climbing. I have the Southern Sierra Rock Climbing: Sequoia/ Kings Canyon guide book and info on hiking in the area, but I am looking for some specific info/recomendations from folks familiar with the area.

What is the bear situation like in the parks and at Courtright? (ie.lock food up and you are fine, or expect your car door to be peeled off for the spilled gorp in the back seat)

What is the current camping situation at Courtright? permits? crowds?

I am looking for very moderate trad climbs (under 5.7) one to five pitches. I have read through the guidebook several times, but I am looking for personal recommendations. (I lead 5.7 trad at Mt. Lemmon comfortably, but have limited crack experience. Wife follows 5.6, no crack experience.)

Courtright looks the most promising for easy climbs. Any info/opinions on: Penstemon Dome - specifically Doin'it Right, Sunday Hoe-Down and Sunday Funnies

Punk Rock - specifically Grumpy and Snezzy, Lighting Bar, and Bambi and the Ogre

Spring Dome and Trapper Dome - any of the sub 5.7 routes

Any routes that we should definately avoid at Courtright?

What is the general character of the bolts at Courtright? Big beefy powerdrilled beauties or 1/4' button heads with Leeper hangers?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Courtright doesn't have the bear problem that places like Yosemite have. Worry more about little critters than the big ones. There's a developed campground on the west side of the lake run by the Dept. of Water & Power. It's first-come-first-served, and showers & groceried are about 20 minutes away by car.

There aren't too many routes at these ratings, but if you're leading 5.7 at Mt. Lemmon then you're probably better then you think you are.

Another route to consider is A Little Nukey (??? - don't have the guidebook). It's on Power Dome which is a seriously cool place to climb. Although it's rated 5.9-, there's just one or two moves over 5.8 and it's very well bolted so there's no major anxiety on the part of the leader. Plus you get a nice pitch up the solution pockets that's only about 5.6; you can check out some seriously unique climbing! Bring some small tri-cams and look for holes to thread.

John

Lock up, you're fine. The campground host said they had only seen one bear all year.

Drive all the way around the lake to the Trapper Springs campground. It's not crowded at all. It does cost $16 a night.

Easy warmups right above camp on Marmot Dome (Bucket 0'Jugs and Double Double) will give you a feel for the rock. 3-ish pitches each. Cracks tend to be eroded flares on these routes rather than real jamcracks.

Allow time/energy for the hike in (down and then UP). Haven't done those routes, have done Crooked Neck on Penstemon. My TR was posted recently. It's unaesthetic, traverses and is full of plants. Way trad.

See above for Marmot Dome

The guy was asking for climbs in the 5.7 range, moderate, with his wife only doing 5.6. I'd say Little nukey, based on that info, might be a bit tough for them. Teh climbing is a bit thin in spots, and despite the bolts, there are definately spots where you have to do some thin moves where falling would be ugly. (I'm thinking of above the lip on the second pitch, where you go left). It's also at the VERY upper end of the route length he asked for.

Great climb though. I did it for teh second time in August, with my buddy ray. Alfred Kwok and Jay Tanzman (both r.c's) followed on another rope. Jay declared it 'not very interesting', but later recanted a bit...Alfred was so happy I though he was going to pee his pants.....fun fun....

Yeah what Geoff said. Double Double on Marmot Dome has a zillion variations and is 5.6. P1 has a runout section, just don't fall.