pitch
...w.naclassics.com but the information is pretty general. I have read reports that talked about the guano pitch but I have gotten little or no information on the pendulum pitch which is reportedly the ...
...dn't figure out how to get on it! My partner led off on the right-most 5.9 variation of the initial pitch. NOT recommended. Much thrashing and cursing. He came down. He then tried the middle 5.9 ...
...saw the author on Tulgey. I had a great time there, leading new wave, broken tree, klondike, and the 1st pitch of one way sunset, all on-sight xcept for new wave which I'd done on a previous trip...
smelni asks...
In this situation, where you are at the crags, just sport climbing single pitch stuff, (if you truly think you need a back up) have your partner hold the tails of your rope. If some...
...make you climb so SLOW! We knew we were hosed but we started the route anyway. Caught the bucketheads at pitch four, sat out a slight rain shower and bailed. Like Ahhhrnold said....... 'I'll...
... 10's and I can climb 11a/b with maximum effort and some working. Will I be climbing a sustained 10 pitch 5.11 anytime soon? No. If I were going to do a 10 pitch route right now, I might do somet...
...rope be ok, or is a 60m better? >> 50m rope is fine. You need a #3Camalot or #3.5 or #4 friend for pitch 4 (ankle buster pitch), but probably only place you'll use it. Medium to large stopp...
...ce Lake area next week. Anyone know sources or anything about possible climbing there? Looking for multi-pitch, trad, or mixed in the 5.5 to 5.8 range....
...t. Shop in the Valley) & haven't found anyone who knows.
Great route BTW. I thought the 2nd pitch was kinda stiff- I stayed with the crack, not the 'bathtubs' variation. The �...
The 10c corner pitch takes as much gear as you want to put in. There are stances to place gear from the whole way up. Don't be intimidated by this route.
Dave
Before you buy.
Help me out here...
My friend says that the 1st pitch does not protect well for the portion from the ground to the first bolt. Is this true? How high up before you get some solid pro to protect a ...
Sounds like this should be called the cowboy pitch.
Also sounds like a fun route!
Bob, you need to make them carry more and do more work. Then, they will be in awe of your abilities.
Mad &...
...ng this.
To illustrate my point, let's consider an aid climb. Let's say you nail a thin A5 pitch right off the ground. Now I repeat it but do so on top rope. I would have no right to sta...
...'s very well bolted so there's no major anxiety on the part of the leader. Plus you get a nice pitch up the solution pockets that's only about 5.6; you can check out some seriously uniq...
... Squaw,Overhanging Gardens on the Papoose and then on to harder chosspiles like Tall Skinny People ( a 4-pitch full body chimney requiring a wetsuit and scuba gear on most occasions, it goes at '...
Karl,
Great report. Thanks for bringing back the memories. And, congrat's on sending the OW pitch! My partner, Tim, a solid 5.11 climber, moaned his way up that thing - and when I saw Skinner...
... follow me. I just squeezed on back again.
Sounds like a fun weekend. Be glad you escaped the second pitch of Reed's Direct. Stinking hard, that thing is. Harder than Lunatic Fringe. Really....
...ther Index or Exit 38. Casual outting. Nothing too committing. Probably just clipping some bolts. 1 or 2 pitch stuff. Maybe some trad routes too. If you're interested, drop me an email. Probably ...
...h it's direct start is probably one of the better climbs around (about 5.10 with a 5.7, 5.8 R first pitch).
Cheyenne (ex Harrisburg area climber)...
...#039;s Gully wall on Kinbalu? Check out www.sheer7.com . Sounds MUCH longer and more big-wall than a 10 pitch grade V, not to knock your accomplishment but there is bigger stuff than that down there....
A climber who has climbed a few thousand pitches has taken a lot more rolls of the dice than one who has only climbed a few dozen, even though his odds of surviving per roll may be a bit better than f...
It was the fact that it had rained that week, that recent snowfall had been really light, that the two-pitch route wasn't in at all when people had climbed it just fine a week earlier, and mainly...
... 5.11 sport and my partner climbs in the 5.8-5.9 range. We're also looking for som 5.6 - 5.7 single pitch Trad routes. I've got the rockfax guide to 'the lakes' and I'm thinki...
... starting. You can always move on to harder routes if everything feels right. Definitely stick to single pitch routes when you are starting out.
K
...
...d want to size up the scene before I get there. I've been climbing for two years now, mostly single pitch crag stuff, up to 5.10b on toprope or sport lead and up to 5.8 on trad lead.
Thanks i...
We climbed the guillotine twice. First time, couldn't figure out the crux on the first pitch and pulled on gear. Then on 2nd day found a way via a hidden hold on the right. I find that route very...
... them were wearing the Nike Airs. They probably climb that thing 3 or 4 days a week, but still, the last pitch has a real move or two, and it was no problem. Of course they 55 year old guide was weari...
...ing to be done within close proximity of most capital cities, or you can travel and get to a lot of multipitch climbing on varied rock. A lot of the climbing is Trad, but there is still a lot of Sport...
...head).
The prelims involved one shot of tequila per hour on an all-day climb. He went technicolor on pitch 8, thus losing out to former rec.climber Mattie Thompson, who radioed down from the summi...
...r one day of climbing. Cold climbing.
Me? The last thing I climbed was the Adirondike, a single long pitch of NEI 3+ ice with ice that was (left to right) brittle, aerated, and too thin. It was a ...
The Content on this site is provided for general information purposes only. Your use of the Content, or any part thereof, is made solely at Your own risk and responsibility. By entering this site you declare you read and agreed to its Terms, Rules & Privacy.
Copyright © 2006 - 2010 My Cliff Buddies |
TIP: Write your question in details [ why? ]
Latest Posts
|
more posts...