Devils Tower, Need some info

Me and a friend are heading for Devils tower in a couple weeks, we plan on trying the Durrance route but have heard the stories telling us if we dont get to the base at 4 am we will probably not get on that route. Being the most popular route for newer climbers there. Are there any other routes anyone would reccommend onthe tower that are in the 5.7 to 5.9 range that we might attempt if we are pushed off the Durrance? Gear may be a limitation for us on other routes, as we are mainly geared up for the durrance and a little more than needed.

the gear we have is a Fullset of BD nuts, Full set of BD Hexes, #1,2,3 Camalots, tons of biners, 2 50M ropes, Misc Slings, ATcs etc.

Anyones ideas would help. We have the book on Devils Tower with all the routes listed and described, but its just not the same as hearingit from someone whos actually been onthe route. Im not wanting actual Beat on the climb, part of the fun of the route is learning the moves without it.

Thanks

Well, here's how you score on Durrance:

Late start. 5pm or later. Watch the sun set from the summit. If you're slow you can rap at any time.

Works for me at least ...

John

I have climbed it 5 times, and do not think I have ever started earlier than noon, of course I also don't mind rappelling in the dark.I will also let out an important secret, by starting later, you will be in the shade after about 3:00, less likely to have anyone behind you, so you can enjoy the climb and not be rushed.bring a camera, as sunset from the top is awesome, and you can get a shot of the the towers shadow due to its sundial effect. As far as gear goes, in 1988 we climbed it with no cams, but the do make it much nicer, you can get just about any size piece of pro to work somewhere on the route, however a #4.5 and #5 'Camalot' will make the Durrance Crack (pitch#2) a lot more tame. I would also strongly recomend you wear a helmet, as people refer to the Durrance and meadows rappel area as 'The Bowling Alley', and I have seen a lot of gear dropped in this area (full coil of rope, a whole rack, helmet....)and all of these were on seperate trips. Deffinately do the route, as it is a true american classic. Good Luck.

Jim Cormier Cormier Mountaineering

Before you buy.

I do have one question concerning the Durrance route. I have been told the Belay points are bolted, but the ranger station guy i talked to said they werent to be trusted. ANyone been there recently and seen the condition and are they trustworthy?

Later

There's not too much that you couldn't climb with that rack. With your rack in mind, I would suggest that you try TAD, Bon Homme Variation, Soler, Walt Bailey Memorial, Phillip's Retreat, Best Crack in Minnesota, and Assembly line as alternatives to what could be a busy Durrance route. I've had great luck and I've never started before 9:00 a.m. with the Durrance route, so don't be afraid to give it a look.

Tower Tips: Make sure that you when you rap down, you put the rope over the middle of the pillers and NOT down either side...the Tower is a rope-eater if you make this mistake.

The only things I would suggest that you add to your rack are prussik cords or ascenders, a bunch of slings for the old pins and bolts, and PLENTY of Water...it can get hotter than heck! Have a great time.

I was there Last summer and the bolts which were put in in the early 90's are Petzl Glue ins, and are very good, most belay spots on durrance still have some of the old bolts too (sure they flex but still should be reliable.

Jim Cormier Cormier Mountaineering
www.cormiermtn.com

Before you buy.