Backing up a rappel

Just wanted to get a feel for who backs up rappels and how they do it. There has been a lot of talk in this news group about lowering off anchors vs rappelling. When people rappel do they typically back it up and what do they use for back up?

Before you buy.

I always use an autoblock which I keep wrapped on my leg loop. It can seem slow at first, but once you get the right set up for your cord, it goes equally as fast. It only takes one extra step when getting on rappel and getting off, but you get really quick when you do it every time.

smelni asks...

In this situation, where you are at the crags, just sport climbing single pitch stuff, (if you truly think you need a back up) have your partner hold the tails of your rope. If something happens 'they' now become the brake hand. You can waste a lot of time with prussics and yada, yada, yada (above and/or below) your rappel device, but by far this is the simplest, the easiest, the quickest and the safest...

Now if you're on multi pitch stuff....this whole scenario changes...

The Rockrat...

If I go down first, I use an autoblock. Done loosely with a sling, it isn't terribly slow. I can then protect the next guy down with a fireman's belay. Easy, takes little time, adds safety.

If I have to collect draws on the way or am alone in the area (climbing with a rope cam), I back up with a Prusik, usually. Probably would also in alpine areas.

I tie a prussik knot above my rack or figure-8 and clip it into my harness. Slide the knot with your top hand and control desent with your lower hand. If you have trouble, you are locked on by your prussik rope. To unarrest yourself you will need a leg loop to step up on.

I can't believe I am so bored that I'm responding to this.

When I back up I:

1. Attach the prussic to the rope (I use 3 wraps for single, two for double rope) 2. Attach the prussic to a leg strap with a small locker. 3. Loop a 2 ft spectra runner thru my harness. 4. Put the locking carabener thru the 2 loops of the runner. 5. Put the ATC + rope thru the carabener like the usual rappel setup.

When I rapell I keep my hand on the prussic. If I let go, I locks. To unlock it, I slide it down. I keep my hair short, so it doesn't get caught in the ATC that is near my chin. If the prussic were to lock hard, I carry a knife. (maybe that will stir things up).

I don't prefer Kevin's method as the first thing I would do if out of control is grab the uphill rope. I usually only back-up if I'm working on something on the rapell (cleaning loose stones + bushes, untangling a line, placing gear to redirect the line, etc.) This setup allows me to take my hands totally off the line(s) to work.

But don't ever do that, because you will die.

BTW, I use an older style harness that's all sewn 2 in. nylon. The leg loops are sewn to the belt. It's real strong. I'm not certain about were you would attach the prussic on a newer harness.

nathan (4:00 at last) sweet

I girth hitch a shorter runner made of cord (start with 4.5 feet of cord tied in a double fishermans) around my leg loop, give it 3 wraps around the rope below the rappel device, and clip it into a locker also on my leg loop.

Having it below the rappel device is good cause when it locks it's easy to release.

You can pull up the rope, set the autoblock with some slack in the rope, then it's easy to set up your rappel device, because the autoblock is holding the rope for you.

If you get to a hanging rappel station, you let go and it holds you there, while you set up the next anchor. (may cause death)

The main drawback is you have to feed the rope through if you are walking over a ledge in mid-rappel, and tangles in the rope are more of a problem to feed through.

-Steve

Before you buy.

I have a small locker to which I've 'permanently' attached a short length of 6mm cord. I usually leave it on my leg loop all the time. That way it only takes about 15 sec to set up as an autoblock, and I'm not tempted to skip it if I'm in a hurry or tired or whatever.

Anecdotal story to encourage the use a rappel backup:

Watched my brother rapping down a steep slab about a year ago. I didn't see exactly how it happened, but his foot slipped or something and he smashed up against the rock on his right (brake hand) side. He must of hit his funny bone or something because his arm went numb for a while. He got control of the rope with his left hand so fast it wasn't a big deal, but we've used the autoblock technique ever since.

Here's my two cents worth... like a lot of the other responses, I back up below my device, with a klemheist (is that the same as an autoblock?) on a biner attached to my leg loop. Then I just keep my brake hand on the thing as I descend... makes those scary multi-pitch rappels a little nicer. But here's the other thing I like about it...

HANDY TIP #1001

I set up the klemheist BEFORE I set up the rappel (I'm securely attached to the anchor, of course). That way, I can pull up a bit of slack, let the klemheist hold the weight of the trailing rope, and not have to cram two bights of rope through my Pyramid under all the weight of the rest of the rope. It's saved me a few dropped descenders. (Dropped before I figured this out: 2. Dropped after, 0.)

Then there's the time I had to descend a single 10mm in an almost-epic of rain, jammed rope, and dropped belay device... using a Muenter hitch for the first time 'for real',.. and backed up above AND below. OK, so that was overkill. Glad I knew the Muenter, though.

By the way, speaking of prussiks and the like, is anyone else congenitally unable to tie a French Prussik that reliably locks?

- Brett

Before you buy.

The backup is for the case where you cease being able to handle your primary system. The usual case is then the following: your backup device will exert pull on the rope beyond the descending device, causing it to block.