A Pre-equalized Anchor

How to join three anchor points into a pre-equalized anchor with a cordelette. After securely inserting three pieces of gear into a crack you have several options for joining them together into one anchor. Take a cordelette, or a short rope loop, and slide it into each of the carabiners. Decide which direction you would like to climb in and tie a figure eight knot with all the loops formed with the cordelette. This creates a pre-equalized anchor that works well if you are climbing in one direction.